Retinoids are fat-dissolving compounds derived from vitamin A. Examples include retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinal. These ingredients have been used for more than 60 years to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and photoageing.
Traditionally, retinol has been the most widely used vitamin A derivative in cosmetics. Its ability to improve the signs of skin ageing makes it very popular.
It reduces wrinkles and improves skin texture. As a result, it is a key ingredient in many beauty products. However, retinol is linked to skin irritation, and its use in cosmetics is being limited.
Therefore, retinal, or retinaldehyde, is presented as an ideal alternative due to its high efficacy, lower irritation and higher chemical stability. As it is a step before retinoic acid, its action is faster and more effective than that of retinol. This makes it a more popular choice in new formulations.
How do retinoids work on the skin?
Retinoids are able to penetrate cell membranes into the cytoplasm, where conversion to retinoic acid, the active form, occurs.
The retinoic acid reaches the cell nucleus. This happens thanks to proteins called CRAPB2. In the nucleus, it binds to the retinoic acid receptors, RAR and RXR.
Together they form a complex acting as a transcription factor. This retinoic acid-RAR-RXR complex controls the transcription of certain genes in the DNA. This causes a change in protein synthesis, which in turn changes cell function.
Cellular functions that are modified by retinoids include the following:
- Increased collagen production in fibroblasts. Retinoids affect the regulation of fibroblast growth factors (FGF). These factors are necessary to create collagen and elastin fibres in tissue regeneration.
- Decreased collagenase production thereby reducing collagen degradation.
- Increased proliferation of keratinocytes increasing cell renewal.
- Limitation of the action of free radicals generating an antioxidant effect.
- Inhibition of tyrosinase activity reducing hyperpigmentation.
- Increased hyaluronic acid synthesis in the skin.
Retinal & Retinol
Retinol is the most commonly used retinoid. However, many dermatologists and professionals prefer retinal (retinaldehyde) for skin care. Why?
The key is the speed of conversion to retinoic acid. Retinol is converted to retinoic acid in two steps. Retinoic acid is the active form of vitamin A. Retinal, on the other hand, needs only one step. This makes it faster and more effective.
Retinal is therefore in a unique position in the metabolism of retinoids.
Several studies show that a concentration of 0.05% retinaldehyde can have similar effects to retinoic acid. However, it is better tolerated in the skin. This makes retinal a good alternative to retinol, with up to 11 times greater efficacy.
Retinal: powerful and gentle at the same time
Retinal is a good alternative to retinol. It is effective and better tolerated. It can give noticeable results on skin, making it look smoother and more radiant. It also causes less irritation.
This is because being structurally ‘closer’ to the active form, retinal is used in substantially lower concentrations, providing better skin tolerance.
Benefits of retinal over other retinoids include the following:
- Faster: Retinal is more effective because it is metabolised directly into retinoic acid.
- Action on more cells: retinal can be transformed into retinoic acid in all types of keratinocytes, both differentiated and undifferentiated.
- Gentler: It is better tolerated than retinoic acid, being of similar activity.
Retinal for sensitive skin
Sensitive skin is prone to irritation and cosmetics containing retinol are contraindicated in people with sensitive skin. However, it has been shown that sensitive skin tolerates retinal better. Even in skin with rosacea, retinal improves this condition. This occurs with the use of an anti-inflammatory and the vascular wall strengthener HMC (Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone).
How to get the most out of retinoids?
Retinaldehyde: The future of Vitamin A in Cosmetics after Regulation (EU) 2024/996
Regulation plays a key role in the safety and efficacy of cosmetics. With the publication of Regulation (EU) 2024/996, the use of some forms of vitamin A in cosmetic products has been restricted.
The use of retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate has been limited in the cosmetics sector. In particular, it has been limited to a maximum concentration of 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE) in body lotion and 0.3% in other products. In addition to special labelling requirements for cosmetics.
In this context, retinal or retinaldehyde emerges as one of the best options available.
Retinal, Retinol & Bakuchiol
With the current limitation of retinol concentration, its combination with retinal is a valid option to preserve retinol in a product but reduce its dose of use while maintaining its efficacy.
On the other hand, there is a plant-based alternative to retinol: Bakuchiol. This active ingredient is extracted from the Psoralea coryfolia plant, and has its origins in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine. Its use has become very popular in Korean cosmetics due to its antioxidant activity.
In addition, Bakuchiol prevents and corrects the apparition of wrinkles and evens out skin tone, similar to the results achieved with retinoids. In this case it can also be combined with retinal for a superior effect.
Quimidroga’s Solutions
At Quimidroga, we offer different solutions to formulate with alternatives to retinol and to be able to claim a powerful cosmetic compatible with all skin types.
Contact us for more information.
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