In young skin, collagen and elastin fibers form a network structure in the dermis, which supports the epidermis and provides the skin with turgor and elasticity. Over time, physiological changes occur in the skin, manifesting as skin sagging, both in facial and body areas. Firming actives in cosmetics arise from the need to restore the skin’s elasticity and turgor lost during the aging process.
Firming actives are ingredients that stimulate the formation of collagen and elastin fibers that are lost with skin aging. In some cases, firming actives work by reducing the synthesis of the enzyme responsible for the natural degradation of fibers, an effect known as anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, or anti-hyaluronidase. Additionally, firming actives can be those with venotonic and anti-edema efficacy, as they improve the resistance of blood vessels and consequently improve skin firmness. Other firming actives in cosmetics are those that reduce the appearance of cellulite, particularly in women, and in areas of the body where fat predominates.
Flash effect or “instant beauty” cosmetics. These are formulated with high concentrations of firming, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, and especially tightening actives. This tightening effect is characteristic of certain film-forming agents, and it is what allows the cosmetic to be attributed the “instant beauty” effect.
Anti-cellulite cosmetics. Cellulite is characterized by the appearance of dimples around the thighs, buttocks, and other areas of the body where fat deposits are located. Anti-cellulite ingredients are firming actives that have a lipolytic action, as they break down fat cells in the skin, improving its appearance.
Relaxing effect cosmetics. Some firming actives can help relax expression lines. These actives claim effects similar to those of medical treatments with botulinum toxin.
Toning cosmetics. Some firming actives can be included in toning cosmetics, which strengthen vascular walls and improve blood microcirculation. Therefore, firming actives are found in cosmetics for the treatment of conditions like rosacea, and for the treatment of varicose veins or tired legs.
| Name | INCI | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Caffeine | Caffeine | Active ingredient with various functions, such as widening small blood vessels of the skin. Suitable for firming skin and hair care applications. |
| GABA | Aminobutyric Acid | It is a naturally occurring amino acid, effective in cosmetics against skin aging, due to its regenerative action and promotion of hyaluronic acid and collagen synthesis. |
| Hesperidin methyl chalcone | Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone | Potent antioxidant, similar to flavonoids. Photoprotective action to combat the effects of UVB radiation. Improves permeability of venous capillaries, increases varicose veins, and enhances vascular blood flow. Benefiting hair growth by increasing blood flow to scalp capillaries. Added to nail polish, prevents yellowing of nails. |
| Alpha lipoic acid Lipoves® | Aqua, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Thioctic Acid, Phospholipids | They are nanoliposomes of natural phospholipids that encapsulate the purest cosmetic actives. They transport the active deep into the skin where it is released. Lipoves® are water soluble and protect the active ingredient, Alpha Lipoic Acid also known as thioctic acid. It is a biological antioxidant that has been shown to quench hydroxyl radicals, hypochlorous acid, and singlet oxygen. Increases coenzyme Q10 levels and regenerates glutathione. |
| Vit AEK LipoVes® | Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phosphatidylcholine, Phytonadione Epoxide | They are nanoliposomes of natural phospholipids that encapsulate the purest cosmetic actives. They transport the active deep into the skin where it is released. Lipoves® are water soluble and protect the active ingredient, vitamin A, E, and K. This active ingredient reduces bags in the eye contour. |
| Retinaldehyde LipoVes® | Aqua, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Retinaldehyde, Phospholipids, Ascorbic Acid | They are nanoliposomes of natural phospholipids that encapsulate the purest cosmetic actives. They transport the active deep into the skin where it is released. Lipoves® are water soluble and protect the active ingredient, retinaldehyde. Retinal in the human body converts to retinoic acid, which has significant activity in skin rejuvenation. |
| Retinol LipoVes® | Aqua, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Retinol, Phospholipids | They are nanoliposomes of natural phospholipids that encapsulate the purest cosmetic actives. They transport the active deep into the skin where it is released. Lipoves® are water soluble and protect the active ingredient, retinol. Retinol promotes differentiation, maturation, and desquamation of keratinocytes, thus maintaining the structure of the extracellular matrix in good condition. |
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