In the epidermis, the stratum corneum is composed of keratinized, non-nucleated, flattened cells commonly referred to as "dead cells." Exfoliation is the cosmetic treatment that removes the excess dead cells present in the stratum corneum of the skin. This treatment stimulates cell regeneration and the microcirculation of the skin's surface, making the skin smoother, more flexible, and more radiant. A cosmetic exfoliating product cleans through abrasion, which can be chemical or physical-mechanical.
Exfoliating ingredients for cosmetics are designed to remove dead skin cells, thus promoting cell regeneration. Using exfoliating ingredients gives the skin a bright and healthy appearance, with a smooth texture. Three types of exfoliants are distinguished based on their mechanism of action:
Chemical exfoliants are ingredients that reduce the cohesion between skin cells, facilitating their detachment without physical friction.
Physical exfoliants refer to solid particles capable of scraping off the layer of dead skin cells.
Enzymatic exfoliants are proteolytic plant enzymes that break down the protein structures between the corneocytes of the skin.
Removal of dirt that accumulates on the skin’s surface. Therefore, the use of exfoliating ingredients reduces the likelihood of acne or other skin imperfections.
Shedding and removal of superficial keratinized cells that make up the stratum corneum. Skin with slow cellular regeneration is characterized by epidermal thickening. This is common in oily skin types or in male skin, so the use of exfoliating ingredients in these skin types can significantly improve their appearance.
Facilitation of microcirculation due to the local massage action performed during the skin exfoliation treatment.
Increased oxygenation of epidermal cells as a result of increased superficial vascularization.
Improvement of skin texture, making it softer.
Promotion of the penetration of other cosmetics applied subsequently, thus enhancing their action.
Exfoliating ingredients are used in different galenic forms. Physical exfoliants are typically used in aqueous suspensions of varying viscosity. Such products require a suspending agent to keep the exfoliating particles homogeneous and prevent their precipitation, achieved by some thickeners. They also usually contain surfactants in their composition, which facilitate the removal of the product and contribute to skin cleansing. On the other hand, chemical exfoliants are commonly used in creams or lotions.
Over-exfoliation damages the skin’s barrier function, so special care must be taken with areas where the skin is thinner as they are more sensitive. Contrary to popular belief, the effectiveness of an exfoliating treatment depends largely on the regularity of its application and not on the aggressiveness or force applied during use.
| Name | INCI |
|---|---|
| Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 | Succinic Acid |
| Glucono-D-lactone | Gluconolactone |
| Glypure™ | Glycolic Acid |
| Lactic Acid | Lactic Acid |
| Citric Acid | Citric Acid |
| Mandelic Acid | Mandelic Acid |
| Salicylic Acid | Salicylic Acid |
| Lactobionic Acid | Lactobionic Acid |
| Name | INCI |
|---|---|
| Natural Abrasive (Juglans Regia Shell) | Juglans Regia Shell Powder |
| Olive Pit Abrasive | Olea Europaea Seed Powder |
| Pharmasugar Crystal | Sucrose |
| Zeodent® (Silica – Oral Care) | Hydrated Silica |
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